Andy Travels

Sweet Relief in Pisac

An excerpt from Mis Dias de Peru

The Location:  The Sacred Valley, outside Cusco, Peru

The Players: JB, Michaela, Caesar, and me

The Sacred Valley...Peru at its finest

The Sacred Valley...Peru at its finest

I really shouldn’t have drunk all that mate de coca this morning.  I mean, it’s delicious, nutritious and actually a real necessity at 11,000 feet with all that nagging altitude sickness looming around; but 5 cups right before a two hour car ride was probably a little excessive.  Now, I’m doing my damnedest not to think about it, but I really need to take a leak.  I got Caesar whipping around these mountain corners, slamming on the brakes, throwing down the gas, bobbing and weaving all over the broken alpine roads – really just ensuring we know he can drive like a true Peruvian.  If I didn’t know any better, I’d think he was deliberately driving like this to torture me and my poor bladder.  It is a full blown fact that I will wet myself if we don’t reach a toilet soon…

Caesar had pulled up to our hotel in his white Toyota station wagon a couple hours

post pee, up close and personal with the ruins

post pee, up close and personal with the ruins

earlier and has cheerfully been touring us around the Urubama Valley since.  We rode past the Sacsayhuaman, Q’enko, Puca Pucara, and Tambomachay ruins, and then got some nice pics of Cusco at up over 12,000 ft. all while enjoying some fun facts from Caesar in this smooth Spanish/Quechua mixed dialect.  My favorite part was that first peek of the Valley as you ride out of Cusco.  It is nothing short of spectacular.  The whole scene makes your body kind of tingle, and I can definitely see where the Incans were coming from when they named it The Sacred Valley. Michaela literally had to take a step back as vertigo began knocking her off balance.  The cool blue river surrounded by multicolored farmland on the valley bottom looks amazingly peaceful as it slices through the band of treacherous snowcapped mountains dominating the skies.  My eyes doubled in size and I heard a faint ‘wooow’ seep through my lips as I’m pretty sure I saw God when we came around that first bend and the Valley finally revealed her exquisite beauty.  In an area so rich with history and culture, Caesar has been foaming at the mouth, attaching interesting tidbits of info to every rock, plant, and mountain peak.  My Espanol has progressed to the point to where I’m picking up a good 60-70% of what he’s feeding me, but a lot of the stuff is location specific and I’m pretty sure he’s mixing some Quechua in there, so who knows.  Anywho, I’m translating and relaying what I can to the back seat for mis padres, Michaela and JB, to enjoy as well.

Pisac, which is where we’re headed and billed as the highlight of the day, is a quaint little

Overhead fortress view

Overhead fortress view

town known for its festive Sunday Markets and mind-blowing backdrop of Incan Architecture.  The Pisac ruins ascend from valley floor to mountain peak, equipped with all the bells and whistles of nearby ruin rival Machu Picchu, with a tenth of the crowds.  Displaying a level of ingenuity and creativity unsurpassed for its time, Pisac is the largest Inca fortress discovered to date – modern researchers still have no idea how construction of such magnitude was capable 500 years ago.  With all the legend and mystique surrounding the Inca Empire it becomes easy to believe there was some sort of Divine Intervention at play.  I’m doing what I can to soak all this up as we pull up to the base of the ruins, but it’s kinda tough as I got to pee so bad I got the sweats.

My momma and me in the Pisac ruins

My momma and me in the Pisac ruins

There are a couple tour buses around the base of the ruins; a few tents set up selling arts and crafts, food and drink, and some other just useless shit; and a decent amount of people milling around – but no bath room.  Well ok, there has to be an isolated area around that I can sneak into and relieve myself, you know in the middle of a magnolia tree, or behind a dumpster, I’ll even take a knee between a couple of cars, but no such luck.  Maybe I can hold it, we’ll do a nice little lap around the ruins and before long I’m sure I can find a nice secluded spot.  So we begin our self guided tour and I awkwardly lead the pack battling the urge to buckle over and do the ‘I gotta pee’ dance I was so good at in my elementary years.  A few hundred yards into our tour, I realize the secluded spot I fantasized about is just not going to happen; and I quickly come to the realization that if I am gonna pee, it’s gonna be on Sacred Ground.  But do I really need to be urinating on sacred ground?  Something about the idea is very unsettling.  I want to be respectful and I certainly don’t want to follow the lead of those original Incans who got turned to stone by some subterranean Andean spirit.  But then again the Incas had to do their business somewhere.  You would think they had a few designated areas but I’m not sure the excavators have gotten around to speculating on where the old John was just yet.  So here I am, surrounded by the raw beauty of the Sacred Valley, in a fortress built to honor the gods, whose construction may have been aided by the gods, and I am having one of the best pees of my life.  I have a shy bladder but there was no shyness in this session – just pure bliss.  JB helped out as my look-out to ensure a sense of privacy and after seeing the exorbitant relief on my face, he decided to join in on the action.  This way if I am damned, at least I’ll have my dear ole Dad to suffer with.

Relieved and refreshed we continued deeper into the massive fortress bouldering over

Pisac ruins overlooking the famous Sunday market spot

Pisac ruins overlooking the famous Sunday market spot

ancient stonework and up narrow stairways.  You try to get a grasp on how the Incas where able to erect such a large scale and intricate development and it’s just impossible.  A people so intelligent and ahead of their time, surely they had some designated bathroom facilities.  So for my second restroom break of the day I searched long and hard for an enclosure that resembled an ancient bathroom, and as I completed my business, offered up my apologies to the ancient ones if this was in fact someone’s bed — cause I know I’d be pissed if someone were peeing in my bed.

Posted 2 years, 4 months ago at 10:03 am.

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64 Clicks for the Adrenaline Junkies Soul

An excerpt from Bolivia You Beauty
The Players: My WMDR Crew
The Location: Worlds Most Dangerous Road outside La Paz, Bolivia

Winding all the way down...

Winding all the way down...

Cafe Terrazo was packed and the tension all but smacks you in the face as you walk through the door. The murmurs circulating are all centered around what was to come, “When was the last time you rode a bike”, “I heard somebody broke their collar bone last week”, “Are you really sure you wanna do this?” I was feeling that queasy tension in my gut similar to the excited anticipation before a day on the slopes or stepping onto a new roller-coaster as a kid. The WMDR: The World’s Most Dangerous Road, otherwise known as Weapon’s of Mass Destruction Road, is in fact the world’s most dangerous road. Buses and Trucks carrying loads of people and cargo fall to their death every year on this stretch of about 35 kilometers of gravel. Why not grab some mountain bikes and give it a go!

Really makes your balls chilly when you're up next to it...

Really makes your balls chilly when you're up next to it...

Starting at 15,400 ft, the lack of oxygen and bitter cold hit you all at once. You got about 30 kms of road to cover, getting a chance to feel up your bike while reaching top speeds of around 50-60 kms/hr. But the real fun comes when you hit that gravel. That first bend you come up on that looks as if you are riding straight on into oblivion is truly breathtaking. With a 2,000-3,000 ft drop off to your left, mistakes are completely unacceptable and ensure a pretty certain and undoubtedly miserable death. During the overall 11,800 ft vertical drop you end up stripping about 3 layers of clothes throughout the day. The morning starts off surrounded by snow-capped peaks and you finish up in the evening chillin in the Amazon at an wildlife reserve. Needless to say the day was full of excitement and straightup downhill fun!

In all honesty, I was expecting a bit more out of the track with all the hype that it got. I mean it was definitely fast and fun, just not terribly difficult. Even so, the novelty of riding down the World’s Most Dangerous Rode is pretty cool and you are definitely into it while you are riding with that monstrous drop off pumping adrenaline through your veins. Thanks for another good time Bolivia!

Posted 2 years, 7 months ago at 5:17 am.

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